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解讀織物外觀：從紗線開始
發布時間：2014-10-14
解讀織物外觀：從紗線開始
Reading fabric appearance: the yarn tells the story
利用USTER?TESTER 5以及 USTER?CLASSIMAT 5檢測并預測織物外觀及觸感
Testing with USTER?TESTER 5 and USTER?CLASSIMAT 5 shows how a fabric will look and feel…
客戶滿意度是所有紡廠的目標及聲譽之根本。無論是面向哪一個層次的市場供貨，每一個關鍵的紗線參數都必須測試以保證最終的織物符合期望。無論是從全球最成功的紗線生產商還是從具體的實例分析，都可以證實這一點。
Uster, Switzerland, August 27, 2014 – Total customer satisfaction is every spinner’s goal and reputations depend on it. Every critical yarn parameter must to be tested to ensure that the resultant fabric meets expectations, whatever level of the market is being supplied. All the evidence confirms it, from the world’s most successful yarn producers, and from detailed practical analysis.
市場上主要有兩種紗線用戶：一類用于生產針織或機織優質織物，一類則用于“商品”用途。這兩種群體都有各自的特殊需求，紡廠很有必要理解并達成這些需求。然而有一點是毋庸置疑的，即在每種情況下，紗線測試對于達成客戶滿意度是必要的。
There are two main types of yarn user: those committed to weaving or knitting high-quality fabrics, and those which serve ‘commodity’ applications. Both groups have their own specific requirements – and it’s essential that spinners understand these needs and how to meet them. What is clear, though, is that yarn testing is fundamental to customer satisfaction, in every case.
重要客戶，嚴苛的要求
Major customers, demanding requirements
PALLAVAA集團是印度一家極為成功的紡廠，致力于粘膠、超細莫代爾、莫代爾、滌綸、竹纖維、美國比馬棉及其混紡紗、純棉紗的生產。該集團成立于1995年，如今占有市場領導地位，并給許多知名品牌供貨。該公司執行官Durai Palanisamy如是說道：“能成為NEXT、Marks & Spencer、H & M、Victoria’s Secret 以及其他品牌的供應商，我們感到非常自豪。”
The PALLAVAA Group is a successful spinning company in India, specializing in Viscose, MicroModal, Modal, Polyester, Bamboo, Supima and its blends, and pure cotton. Established in 1995, the group has built a market-leading position, today supplying big-name brands. “We are proud to be a supplier of NEXT, Marks & Spencer, H & M, Victoria’s Secret and others,” says Durai Palanisamy, Executive Director of PALLAVAA Group.
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當然，PALLAVAA并不僅滿足于同知名零售商合作。該集團認識到，要達成目標，必須依賴于有效的質量控制，而這一點與嚴苛的紗線買家需求不謀而合。
Of course, PALLAVAA is not alone in its desire to work with major retailers. And the group is quick to acknowledge that its ambitions in this direction depend on efficient quality control which meets the requirements of demanding yarn buyers.
事實上，長期穩固的客戶關系，基于高標準、全方位的紗線質量參數控制，諸如：條干、疵點（棉結、粗節、細節）、毛羽、殘留疵點以及異纖。USTER?TESTER 5的測試，提供關于條干、疵點以及毛羽的分析及報告，殘留疵點及異纖的分析及報告則由USTER?CLASSIMAT 5提供。有質量意識的紡廠數十年來一直信賴并依靠這兩臺儀器來獲取可靠、精確的數據。這些實驗室測試儀器的數據可告知紗線質量，甚至能預測最終織物外觀。
In fact, long-standing customer relationships, based on high standards, call for a whole range of yarn quality parameters to be controlled: evenness, imperfections (neps, thin and thick places), hairiness, remaining defects and foreign fibers. Measurements from the USTER?TESTER 5 provide reports and analysis on evenness, imperfections and hairiness, while remaining defects and foreign fibers are covered by the USTER?CLASSIMAT 5. Quality-conscious spinners have trusted in these two instruments for decades for reliable and accurate data. These laboratory testing instruments’ data can tell the yarn quality story – and even predict how the final fabric will look.
每一個質量參數皆關乎重大
Every quality parameter matters
當然也有一部分紡廠面向低端市場供貨，他們會認為條干測試就足夠滿足需求了。但這種觀點是錯誤的，烏斯特技術公司紗線測試產品經理Gabriela Peters如是說道：“條干的確是重要的質量參數，但是要預測最終織物質量，其他紗線質量參數也必須測試。”
It’s also true that some spinners, mainly serving the lower end of the market might believe that evenness (CVm) testing could be sufficient for their needs. But that view is mistaken, says Gabriela Peters, Product Manager for Yarn Testing within Uster Technologies: “CVm is indeed a relevant yarn quality parameter, but to predict the final fabric of a yarn it is essential to test other parameters too.”
位于瑞士的烏斯特技術公司實驗室進行的全面實驗表明，條干值相當的紗線會生產出外觀明顯不同的織物。在測試中，來自10個供應商的Ne24棉紗的條干值相當，這可能會錯誤地得出最終織物會看起來一樣的結論。然而USTER?TESTER 5的測試數據表明10個樣品中有8個樣品的棉結結果接近，棉結數值水平在25%的烏斯特?公報水平（USPTM），然而有一個紗樣的棉結數值卻要高得多，竟高于50%的USPTM。
Comprehensive testing at the Uster Technologies laboratory in Switzerland has shown that yarns with comparable CVm values can produce fabrics with obvious differences in appearance. In the tests, Ne24 cotton yarns from 10 different suppliers had insignificant differences in their CVm values, which could lead wrongly to the conclusion that the fabrics would look the same. Further test data from the USTER?TESTER 5 showed results for neps which were close in 8 of the 10 cases, in which the yarns had a nep value below the 25 USTER?STATISTICS Percentile (USPTM). But one of the yarns had a much higher nep value, even exceeding 50 % of the USTER?STATISTICS value.
Peters進一步補充到：“我們從經驗中得知棉結水平超過50%的針織織物表面會起毛起球。”接下來紗線樣品還測試了毛羽狀況，測試結果相差更大，數值從25%到95%的USPTM不等。“毛羽水平不盡相同的紗線生產出的織物外觀也絕不會相同。這些測試結果表明，紡廠僅僅只測試條干是一個潛在的嚴重錯誤。在這種情況下，想要生產滿足客戶需求的紗線，紡廠明顯會盲目自信。”
“We know from experience that fabric knitted from yarn with a nep level over 50 % will show little pilling on the surface,” says Peters. The yarns were also tested for hairiness – and here the test results varied even more widely. Values ranged from below 25 % USPTM to above 95 %.
Fabric made from yarns with such different hairiness values will never ever look the same, and as these test results demonstrate, spinners testing only yarn evenness are making a potentially serious error. They would clearly be wrong to place any confidence in producing yarns to meet customer needs under these circumstances.”
按慣例還是按最佳方案？
Common practice or best practice?
有些紗線用戶采取一種方案，即從一批紗線中抽樣并在針織機織機器上運轉、測試。“如果你有一份可信賴的能關乎織物外觀的紗線測試報告，那么這種用在針織、機織織物上的努力會減至最少或消除” Peters談到：“USTER?TESTER 5，紡織質量控制的核心，提供測試數據預測織物外觀及觸感USTER?CLASSIMAT 5能識別有害粗、細節數量，幫助評估織物疵點”
Some yarn users have developed a policy of taking sample packages from a yarn lot and ‘testing’ them by running the yarn through their weaving or knitting machines. “The effort of knitting or weaving a fabric can be reduced to the minimum or eliminated if you have a yarn test report containing reliable information relating to fabric appearance,” says Peters. “The USTER?TESTER 5, the heart of textile quality control, provides testing data which can predict exactly how a fabric will look and feel. The USTER?CLASSIMAT 5 identifies the number of disturbing thick and thin places, helping to assess fabric defects.”
USTER?TESTER 5以及 USTER?CLASSIMAT 5的測試參數相結合，能幫助評估織物外觀以及下游工序的表現。這兩臺儀器的質量參數都與烏斯特?公報相對應，可輕松比對。
Together the parameters measured by USTER?TESTER 5 and the USTER?CLASSIMAT 5 can help to assess fabric appearance issues and downstream performance. Both instruments correlate all quality parameters to the USTER?STATISTICS value, for easy comparison.
如果紡廠想要提升并維持客戶基礎，理解紗線質量控制尤為關鍵。只有通過鐵一般的事實以及可靠的數據來確保穩定一致的質量，不留余地或不做半拉子的測試才有可能實現。沒有有效的質量控制觀念的紡廠面臨的不僅僅是客戶大量流失的風險，他們是將自身聲譽及商業置于危險之中。正如Pallavaa集團的Durai所強調：“我們不僅對客戶還對我們自身的商譽負有責任，要確保我們的紗線生產的織物能達成滿意。全方位的質量控制是我們至少該做到的。”
Understanding yarn quality control is crucial if spinners want to develop and maintain a customer base to be proud of. That will only be possible when consistent quality is guaranteed by hard facts and reliable data, not left to chance or based on half-hearted testing. Spinners without an efficient quality control concept risk losing a lot more than just the odd customer – they are putting the good name of their entire business on the line, as Durai of Pallavaa Group underlines: “We are obliged to the customers, but also to our own reputation, to make sure that fabric made from our yarns leads to satisfaction. A comprehensive quality control is the least we can do.”
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更多關于紗線質量如何影響織物外觀的論點發表在第49期烏斯特?應用技術簡報上。郵件至info.cn@uster.com，標注“UNB49”即可免費獲取PDF版本。
((Box))
More information on how yarn quality can affect fabric appearance is provided in the USTER?NEWS BULLETIN No. 49. Write to info@uster.com using the subject `UNB49′ for your free personal copy in a pdf-format.
關于烏斯特技術股份有限公司
About Uster Technologies Ltd.
烏斯特集團是紡織業質量控制和認證領域領先的高科技儀器制造商，提供一系列的監測儀器、系統和服務，用于對紡織品生產的每一道工序進行質量優化和認證，從紡織纖維原材料（如棉花、羊毛或合成纖維長絲）到最終的織物成品。烏斯特集團提供的質量基準已經成為國際市場上不同質量級別紡織品進行貿易的基礎。集團的目標是向紡織行業推廣有關質量、生產率和成本的專業知識。
The Uster Group is the leading high-technology instrument manufacturer of products for quality measurement and certification for the textile industry. The Group provides testing and monitoring instruments, systems and services that allow optimization of quality through each individual stage of textile production. This includes raw textile fibers, such as cotton or wool, all staple fiber and filament yarns, as well as downstream services to the final finished fabric. The Uster Group provides benchmarks that are a basis for the trading of textile products at assured levels of quality across global markets. The Group’s aim is to forward know-how on quality, productivity and cost to the textile industry.
集團總部設在瑞士烏斯特，通過市場機構在全球各地開展業務，并設有數個技術中心。它在主要的紡織市場設有銷售和服務子公司，并在烏斯特（瑞士）、諾克斯維爾（美國）和蘇州（中國）設有技術中心。
The Group is headquartered in Uster, Switzerland and operates through a worldwide Market Organization complemented by Technology Centers. It has sales and service subsidiaries in the major textile markets and Technology Centers in Uster (Switzerland), Knoxville (USA) and Suzhou (China).
Media contact:
Edith Aepli
Senior Manager Marketing & Communication
Uster Technologies AG
Sonnenbergstrasse 10
CH - 8610 Uster / Switzerland
Direct +41 43 366 38 80
Mobile +41 79 916 02 91
Fax +41 43 366 39 58
E-mail edith.aepli@uster.com